Shishapangma the 14th highest peak of the world is considered as one of the easiest 8000 M mountains to climb by most of the Climber. Shishapangma is is located almost due north of Kathmandu entirely on the Tibetan side of the Himalaya. The peak is characterized by its long, steep, craggy southern face rising over 2000 m, making it an imposing sight to all would be climbers. The Indian-Nepalese name for the peak is Gosaitan, which denotes “The Holy Place”. The Tibetan name for the mountain is Xixapangma. It’s name literally translates to “The mountain overlooking the grassy plains”.
Shishapangma was the last of the 8000 m peaks to be climbed. The first ascent is credited to Hsu Ching and his ten-man Chinese climbing team in 1964. The team was composed of Chang Chun-yen, Wang Fu-zhou, Chen San, Cheng Tien-liang,Wu Tsung-yue, Sodnam Doji, Migmar Trashi, Doji, Yonten. Shisha Pangma was finally opened to foreign teams in 1980. The first U.S. ascent took place in September 1983, via the mountains Northeast Face, by Mike Browning, Chris Pizzo and Glenn Porzak. By 2003, Shisha Pangma had only recorded 201 successful ascents (to the main summit) and 19 fatalities. As of January of 2000, over 434 people have successfully made the climb to the Central Summit, but only 165 people have continued to the Main Summit, just over an hours climb away, separated by a knife edge ridge of sometimes very unstable snow. This data was collected and published by Jan Kielowski.
Alex Lowe, one of America’s strongest and best-known climbers, died on Shisha Pangma after an avalanche struck on 26,291-foot October 5, 1999, also killed in the avalanche was cameraman David Bridges who was filming the ascent for a documentary. World reknown climber and friend of Lowe, Conrad Anker was also caught in the avalanche but survived.
The first winter ascent is credited to Simone Moro and Peter Morawsky who completed the ascent on the 14th of January 2005. Information on this climb can be found here.
Trip summery in facts:
- Duration: 47 Days
- Countries: China
- Max. Altitude: (8013m./26289ft.)
- Walking Per Day: 5 – 6 Hours Per Day
- Nature: Lodge + Camping
- Grade: Extreme
- Best Season: Spring and Autumn
- Arrival & Departure : Airport transfers-Airport/Hotel/Airport
- Hotel In Kathmandu : 4 nights hotel in Katmandu on bed & breakfast Basis-Double Room
- Flight : Flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa and 2 nights hotel in Lhasa.
- TMA Services : Full Board Service from Lhasa to Shisabangma BC,Going Up: 3 Yak from Base Camp(BC) to Advance Base Camp (ABC) per Member. Coming Down: 2 yak ABC to Base camp (BC) per member 1 yak for staff.
- Transportation: Equipment Transportation of all Member and Staffs From Kathmandu-Kodari (by bus), Kodari to Shisapangma Base Camp by jeep – Base Camp to ABC (by yak) ABC to BC (by Yak) BC to Kodari by Jeep Kodari - Kathmandu(by bus).
- Permit : Mt. Shisapangma expedition permit (From TMA)
- Garbage Management : Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees
- Lodge & Food : Food 3 meals a day in Trekking & Base camp for member & Staffs
- Cargo Clearance : International Air cargo clearance of Member Personal Luggage & Payment of Government taxes
- Liaison Officer : 1 Government Liaison officer with full equipment, salary ,accommodation .
- Base Camp Staff : Base camp Cook & kitchen Helper
- Porter : Porters per member up to Base camp & Porters return from Base camp
- Staff Salary and allowance : All Nepali staffs & porters daily wages, equipment, food & clothing
- Insurance : All Staffs Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance
- Member Luggage : 60 Kg per member for personal baggage
- Base Tent : VE25 North face or Kailas tents for base camp for per member
- Base Base equipment : Base camp foam mattresses, dinning, Kitchen, Toilet & Store tents, hot shower, Tables & chairs & Cooking gears
- Heater : Heater for base camp in each Dining and other necessary camp
- Light : 1 Solar panel for battery charge and light at base camp for use.
- Dinner: one Farewell Dinner in tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Nepalese Staff
- Tibet Visa : Tibet entry Visa Fees as per China Government (Through China Embassy in Nepal)
- Oxygen: (2)-Poisk cylinder: 3 oxygen bottle for each member and 1 oxygen bottle for each high altitude Sherpa
- Mask & Regulator : 1 Set of top Out mask / Summit for each member and high altitude Sherpa
- Permit : Satellite Phone /walkie talkie phone if necessary in basis of Member
- High Altitude Climbing Sherpa: 1 Climbing Sherpa per member
- High camp service : Necessary cooking gas, cooking pot for member, high altitude Sherpa, high altitude tent, high food and fixing gear (C1) (C2) (C3) (C4)
- International flight tickets
- Lunch & Dinner: Lunch & dinner Dring stay in Katmandu and hotel stay more then 4 nights in Kathmandu
- Members Insurance : Travel and high altitude insurance, accident, medical & emergency evacuation
- Personal Expenses: Telephone, Internet, Laundry, any Alcoholic beverages, personal equipment and shopping
- Nepal's Visa: Nepali Visa fee US$ 40 per person for 30 days ( to be applied for 60 days (USD$ 100)
- Sherpa summit Bonus & Tips : Sherpa Summit bonus US$1200 , please calculate some tips for Kitchen staff
- Rescue Evacuation : Emergency rescue evacuation cost if needed and all other personal nature expenses